Home Improvements

Quick Tips on How to Hire Quality House Painters

Hiring house painters would be the best way to make the painting job easy and done right. However, there are a lot of painters in town. As a customer, you want to get the best house painters. You also want to make sure that what you spent would be justified. So how could you get quality house painters?

Here are some quick tips on how to hire quality house painters.

1. Home owner should determine what part of the house needs to be painted.

2. It is important that you should consider any work you want to be done before painting. Like if you want to repair or replace moldings, you should take note of that and tell your painting contractor about it.

3. Decide on what paints and colors you want to use. You can see paint charts at paint stores or home centers. When your hired painter suggests something about what color and paint to use, take it seriously.

4. Contact a lot of house painters. You can ask your friends or neighbors if they could recommend good painters. It shouldn’t be hard to find house painters in your area. If so, you could look at the yellow pages.

5. Painting contractors would then inspect the site and make the appropriate quotation for the job. You have to make sure that the contractors are quoting on the same specifications.

6. It is nice to have references about the painting contractors that you hire. Ask them if they were professional and timely with their work.

7. You should pick a painter that suits your budget, has a good track record, and your impression on them.

8. You should make a contract specifying on what work should be done, payment schedule, total cost, start date and estimated completion date. Paint brands, colors, and number of coats in each location should also be included in the contract.

9. You have to make sure that the contract specifies the in-charge of cleaning up and removing paints from all surfaces.

10. You have to move all furniture and other movable items before the painter is scheduled to begin. The things that haven’t been moved should be thoroughly covered with drop cloth.

It would be at ease when you know these tips when hiring painting contractors. In any case, you must also give a feedback about the house painters that you’ve hired. Future customers would love to hear your feedback.

For information on Coquitlam Painters click here.

Home Improvements

Garage Door Repair – 5 Simple Things to Check

Garage door repair may often be done by the homeowner themselves. There are at least 5 simple things to check, before calling a professional. Some repairs are extremely easy. For example, a stiff or a squeaky door will merely require a good cleaning and lubrication. Other repairs, such as repairing a torsion spring, are extremely dangerous and require help from a professional.

Before proceeding to the repair, make sure to unplug your garage door opener, so that you do not get an electric shock while you are repairing your garage door. You will most likely be standing on a ladder, which is a very bad place to get an electric shock, since you may also fall off the ladder. Also, remember to wear safety glasses when working with power tools.

Here is a list of things to check before calling for a professional for your garage door repair:

1. Check the Metal Tracks for Damages

This easy garage door repair tip may often solve the problem very fast. The metal tracks often may have dents or bumps. If you find any such damages, strike the damaged part of the track with a wood block and a hammer to straighten the track.

2. Check the Alignment of the Tracks

If the tracks are not aligned well, they may be causing the door not to work. It’s not always necessary to unscrew the tracks; you can just try to loosen the bolts or screws and to tap the tracks slightly into position. Use a level to check the alignment of the tracks. Aligned tracks will let you be done with your garage door repair in no time.

3. Clean and Dry the Tracks

Even though it may sound obvious, but hardened dirt and old lubricant may be the cause of the garage door sticking. In this case, your garage door repair may consist of merely cleaning the tracks and then drying them. You can use regular cleaners to clean the tracks.

4. Lubricate the Tracks and the Rollers

Merely lubricating both, the tracks and the rollers, can fix the problem and conclude your garage door repair in no time. For lubrication, you may use a lubricant spray or a silicon spray. It is probably better to lubricate the tracks after cleaning them. Actually, any movable part will benefit from lubrication.

5. Tightening the Loose Bolts and Screws

Bolts and screws tend to become loose with time. Try to check all of the screws and bolts involved in the opening/closing mechanism of your door. Sometimes, merely tightening them may solve the whole problem. If you cannot tighten the screws, because the holes themselves have become loose, then you can use a “wood filler” or pieces of normal wood to fill the holes.

What Not to Do?

If you have tried every one of the above solutions, and none of them have worked, the problem may be the door spring. However, it is advised not to perform your garage door repair if the problem seems to be the spring, especially if it’s a torsion spring. Unfortunately, there have been numerous cases, where people have gotten injured or even killed by the garage door springs. One of the most common injuries is a hit in the head, resulting in serious trauma to the brain.

If you have doubts your garage repair, by no means should you attempt it. It generally will not cost too much. However, a professional will save you from any injuries.

For information on Garage Door Repair in Burnsville, MN, click here.

Home Improvements

Roofing Terminology

Knowing common roofing terminology will enable you as a homeowner to make an informed decision about roofing materials that are good matches for your home’s style and the region in which you live. It will also help you understand the contract with your roofing professional and the project updates.
Some key roofing terms are listed below:

Asphalt: A waterproofing agent applied to roofing materials during manufacturing.

Asphalt plastic roofing cement: An asphalt-based sealant used to bond roofing materials. Also known as flashing cement, roof tar, bull or mastic.

Back surfacing: Granular material applied to the back side of shingles to keep them from sticking during delivery and storage.

Base flashing: That portion of the flashing attached to or resting on the deck to direct the flow of water onto the roof.

Built-up roof: Multiple layers of asphalt and ply sheets bonded together.

Butt edge: The bottom edge of the shingle tabs.

Caulk: To fill a joint to prevent leaks.

Closed valley: The valley flashing is covered by shingles.

Coating: A layer of viscous asphalt applied to the outer roof surface to protect the roof membrane.

Collar: Pre-formed flange placed over a vent pipe to seal the roof around the vent pipe opening. Also called a vent sleeve.

Concealed nail method: Application of roll roofing in which all nails are covered by a cemented, overlapping course.

Counter flashing: That portion of the flashing attached to a vertical surface above the plane of the roof to prevent water from migrating behind the base flashing.

Course: Row of shingles that can run horizontally, diagonally or vertically.

Cricket: A peaked water diverter installed at the back of a chimney to prevent accumulation of snow and ice and to deflect water.

Deck: The top surface of which a roof system is applied, surface installed over the supporting framing members.

Double coverage: Asphalt roofing whose lapped portion is at least two inches wider than the exposed portion, resulting in two layers of roofing material over the deck.

Downspout: A pipe for draining water from roof gutters to drain. Also called a leader.

Drip edge: L-shaped flashing used along the eaves and rakes to allow water run-off into the gutters and to drip clear of underlying construction.

Eave: The part of the roof that overhangs or extends outward and is not directly over the exterior walls or the buildings interior.

Exposed nail method: Application of roll roofing where nails are driven into the overlapping course of roofing. Nails are exposed to the elements.

Fascia: A wood trim board used to hide the cut ends of the roof’s rafters and sheathing.

Felt: Fibrous material used as an underlayment or sheathing paper, describes roll roofing materials.

Flashing: Pieces of metal or roll roofing used to form water seal around vent pipes, chimneys, adjoining walls, dormers and valleys.

Gable: The end of an exterior wall that comes to a triangular point at the ridge of a sloping roof.

Granules: Ceramic-coated and fired crushed rock that is applied as the top surface of asphalt roofing products.

Gutter: The trough that channels water from the eaves to the downspouts. Usually attached to the fascia.

Head lap: An overlapping of shingles or roofing felt at their upper edge.

Hip: The fold or vertical ridge formed by the intersection of two sloping roof planes. Runs from the ridge to the eaves.

Ice dam: Condition forming water back-up at the eave areas by the thawing and re-freezing of melted snow on the overhang. Can force water under shingles, causing leaks.

Interlocking shingles: Individual shingles that mechanically fasten to each other to provide wind resistance.

Laminated shingles: Strip shingles made of two separate pieces laminated together to create extra thickness. Also called three-dimensional and architectural shingles.

Lap: Surface where one shingle or roll overlaps with another during the application process.

Mansard roof: A design with a nearly vertical roof plane connected to a roof plane of less slope at its peak. Contains no gables.

Mineral stabilizers: Finely ground limestone, slate, traprock or other inert materials added to asphalt coatings for durability and increased resistance to fire and weathering.

Nesting: A method of reroofing, installing a second layer of new asphalt shingles, in which the top edge of the new shingle is butted against the bottom edge of the existing shingle tab.

Pitch: The degree of roof incline expressed as the ratio of the rise, in feet, to the span, in feet.

Low Slope – Roof pitches that are less than 30 degrees.

Normal Slope – Roof pitches that are between 30 and 45 degrees.

Steep Slope – Roof pitches that are more than 45 degrees.

Rafter: The supporting framing that makes up the roof structure; immediately beneath the deck; the roof sheathing is nailed to the rafters.

Rake: The inclined edge of a sloped roof over a wall from the eave to the ridge. They can be close or extended.

Ridge: The horizontal external angle formed by the intersection of two sloping sides of a roof at the highest point of the roof, hip or dormer.

Run: The horizontal distance between the eaves and a point directly under the ridge; or one half the span.

Selvage: That portion of roll roofing overlapped by the application of the roof covering to obtain double coverage.

Sheathing: Exterior grade boards used as a roof deck material.

Shed roof: A single roof plane with no hips, ridges, valleys or gables, not connected to any other roofs.

Slope: The degree of roof incline expressed as the ratio of the rise, in inches, to the run, in feet.

Smooth-surfaced roofing: Roll roofing that is covered with ground talc or mica instead of granules (coated).

Soffit: The finished underside of the eaves that extends from the fascia to the siding and hides the bottom of an overhang.

Soil stack: A vent pipe that penetrates the roof.

Span: The horizontal distance from eaves to eaves.

Specialty eaves flashing membrane: A self-adhering, waterproofing shingle underlayment designed to protect against water infiltration due to ice dams or wind driven rain.

Starter strip: Asphalt roofing applied at the eaves as the first course of shingles installed.

Tab: The weather exposed surface of strip shingles between the cutouts.

Telegraphing: Shingles installed over an uneven surface that show distortion.

Truss – A combination of beams, bars and ties, usually in triangular units to form a framework for support in wide span roof construction.

UL label: Label displayed on packaging to indicate the level of fire and/or wind resistance of asphalt roofing.

Underlayment: A layer of asphalt based rolled materials installed under main roofing material before shingles are installed to provide additional protection for the deck.

Valley: The internal angle formed by the intersection of two inclined roof surfaces to provide water runoff.

Vapor barrier/retarder: Any material that prevents the passage of water or water vapor through it.

Vent: Any device installed on the roof as an outlet for air to ventilate the underside of the roof deck.

For information on a Cypress roofing contractor click here.

Home Improvements

Three Good Reasons to Use a Professional Tiler

There are many good reasons why you should hire a professional to install the tiles in your bathroom, or really any other areas of your home where you want to have floor tiles. It would fill volumes on the subject, but here are just three of the biggest and best reasons.

1. The biggest problems that home owner’s face when they are remodeling is time. It not only takes time to set up the project, but you don’t have a lot of time to spend with DIY projects, there is work, busy schedules, and all too often projects get started and then you discover that the work is way above your head, and the job stalls. Soon it’s weeks or in some cases months before it gets finished, when a professional could have it done in a matter of days.

2. The professional tilers have all the equipment as well as the manpower to come in and do the job right the first time. Most people just don’t have the right tools, grouting and finishing trowels, as well as the diamond bit saws laying around the house to do tiling. Sure you could rent the equipment, but unless you know what you’re doing, chances are very likely that you are going to break more of the tiles, costing you more money, as well as time and frustration. A professional tiler comes in, assesses the situation, takes precise measurements, and can even make adjustments on the fly.

3. A professional tiler is much less expensive than you think. Considering the time it takes to do a bathroom project on your own, and that as mentioned before you are going to probably get in way over your head and have to call someone anyway, it is just better to do it right the first time, and have someone who knows exactly what they are doing. This will save you money, time and effort, as well as keep your spouse from getting angry when she doesn’t have a bathtub to soak in.

This doesn’t mean you should just use any old person or company to come into your home. You should only use licensed professionals who have many years doing tiling in bathrooms, or wherever else you want tiles. You should get at least three different quotes to consider. Make sure that you get references, check with your local builder’s association to make sure they are a good company, and get everything in writing. For information on floor tilers in London click here.

Home Improvements, Uncategorized

How to Quickly Resurface a Patio With Interlocking Deck Tiles

If your patio or terrace has begun to look rather tired, or you would simply like to give it a makeover to create an entirely new look, there’s a now a way you can achieve this without any backbreaking work or enduring weeks of tradesmen traipsing through your home – and it can be achieved at a very affordable cost.

Interlocking deck tiles are modular tiles typically 12″ x 12″ in size which are constructed with a plastic base with locking tabs on all four sides. These tabs enable the tiles to be simply snapped together over any firm surface. So they can be laid directly over surfaces such as concrete, asphalt, old tiled surfaces, bricks and pavers and suchlike. And with suitable surface preparation, they can even be laid over bare ground.

And one of the beauties of interlocking deck tiles is that they can be quite forgiving of cracked concrete surfaces. So if your old patio is suffering from cracks and minor pitting or other damage, you don’t necessarily need to firstly repair the surface unless the cracking is so bad that there is a significant height difference on either side of cracks. In most cases, you can simply lay the deck tiles directly over the top of the existing concrete.

Another advantage of interlocking decking tiles is that the plastic base allows water to drain away freely from underneath the tiles. This means that the top surface will dry out as quickly as possible and will avoid any puddles from forming on the surface which could create a slip hazard.

But the biggest advantage of using interlocking deck tiles is probably that they are so quick and easy to install and don’t really require any particular skills. Anyone who has ever laid conventional tiles would be aware of the frustration in ensuring that the spacing between the tiles remains even, that grout lines remain straight and parallel and that the height of the tiles bedded into the thinset or adhesive remains consistent. With interlocking deck tiles you don’t have to worry about any of this. Because of the built-in interlocking tabs, complete accuracy is assured when installing the tiles because they simply snap into place.

These days, interlocking, tiles are available in a wide range of materials. So not only can you cover your deck with wood tiles in a variety of different species so that it will look like a natural wood deck, but there are also slate deck tiles, sandstone deck tiles, composite wood deck tiles and granite deck tiles. All these will basically have the same properties as the original surfacing materials. Although it might seem somewhat odd, with the stone tiles, you don’t even need to insert any grout between the tiles. As with the wood tiles, the gaps between the tiles are left open and allow water to drain away quickly from the top of the surface down between the gaps in the tiles. Stone tiles may also have a textured coating or surface treatment so they will generally exhibit excellent slip resistance.

And of course the tiles can be used on much more than just patios. They are ideal for use in apartment buildings on balconies and rooftops, especially since they can conveniently be carried out elevators or stairs and used where permanently fixed materials are prohibited. And since there is no adhesive or grouting involved, it’s a practically mess free installation method with practically no tools required either – a great boon for apartment dwellers.

Maintenance requirements for interlocking deck tiles are essentially the same as the material that is used on the surface. So for example if you were using wood deck tiles, the colour of the wood will fade and turn to a silvery grey over time when fully exposed to sunlight just as with a conventional wood deck. So it’s always recommended to apply a good-quality decking oil at regular intervals to reduce this rate of fading. And with composite wood and stone tiles, it is always advisable to apply a sealer to reduce water penetration and staining.

But for a quick, easy to install and convenient way of resurfacing an existing hard surface, it’s hard to go past interlocking outdoor deck tiles.

Home Improvements

The New Trend in Residential Metal Roofing

You’ve seen steel roofs on barns, but how often have you seen them on residential property? It’s very likely you’ll be seeing them a whole lot more around the country. With wildfires, hurricanes, hail and other extreme conditions damaging houses, an increasing number of homeowners are taking advantage of the benefits of metal roofing.

Steel roof installations have more than doubled in the last five years and will continue to grow 15 percent per year, according to the Metal Roofing Alliance (MRA). There is no material more capable of protecting a home from destructive weather conditions.

Benefits of Metal Roofing

§ Durability

When buyers are considering a home, they’re always concerned about the condition of the roof. With a metal nothing needs to be done for it to least 50 years. With an asphalt roof, they need to replace it within 15 to 20 years.

§Protection

Most metal roof systems have passed UL 2218 Impact Resistance testing at its most severe level, Class IV. As a result, homeowners in hail-prone states who choose metal roofing may be eligible for discounts on their insurance premiums.

Ed Parker, a retired homeowner from Sharpsburg, Georgia agrees. “We’ve gone through two or three asphalt roofs on our home over the years and they discolor and rip off during wind storms, or leak due to hail storms,” Parker said. “Metal is much more durable.”

§Environmentally Friendly

The National Association of Homebuilders Research Center estimates that 20 billion pounds of asphalt roofing is taken to landfills every year. Metal’s longevity removes the need for frequent roof replacements. Better still, it can be laid over the current roof, eliminating the costs of shingle removal and land-fill fees. If a metal roof is ever removed, it can be recycled.
Steel is the best choice for “green” buildings, where the goal is to reduce or eliminate chemical substances, according to the American Iron and Steel Institute (AISI). Unlike wooden shakes or some other traditional materials, steel is not vulnerable to insects, mold or rot. Therefore, it does not require the application of insecticides or other hazardous chemicals.

§Energy Efficient

Time-tested metal roofs save energy and reduce your cooling costs by as much as 40 percent, depending on location, says the MRA. The advent of new reflective paints with energy-saving properties has revolutionized the residential roofing industry.

While asphalt and cedar shingles absorb heat, the new cool pigment technology can reflect up to 85 percent of the sun’s radiant energy. Now, even dark colors achieve the “cool” attributes. An Energy Star roof can stay up to 100 degrees cooler on its surface than other roofs, so less heat is transferred into the building.

Wilmer Dykes, a homeowner from Cochran, Georgia, noticed a decrease in his energy bill of at least 25 percent after installing his metal roof. Dykes believes keeping his old roof on his home helped save energy. “By building the new metal roof over it, we created an air pocket between the two roofs, giving us an added layer of insulation,” he said.

§Low Maintenance

A metal roof won’t crack, curl, split, rot or lose impact resistance with age. The only maintenance recommended for a metal roof is an annual inspection, clearing the roof of accumulated leaves or other debris and checking roof top ancillaries and air conditioners to ensure that they are properly drained and supported.

§Tax and Insurance Savings

The U.S. Energy Policy Act of 2005 allows for a tax credit for homeowners who install qualified energy-efficient improvements to an existing home, including metal roofs that meet the Energy Star program requirements.

§Aesthetics

For some, a stigma still remains from the old, ugly metal barn roofs. However, a host of new colors, finishes and profiles has drastically improved the look over the last 10 years.

Don Smith, another homeowner from Cochran, said that aesthetics was one of the most important factors in his decision to purchase a metal roof. “I had seen steel roofs in the high-end subdivisions and really liked the look,” he said. “Now, strangers stop in my driveway and ask me questions about my roof because they like the look of it too.

Casey Paulk, owner of Paulk Landscaping serving central Georgia, agrees. “In my business, I see a ton of homes, so I’m always comparing, contrasting and making mental notes,” he said. “When I built my new home, I did a lot of research. I decided to go with a metal roof primarily for the aesthetics – I love the way metal looks.”

Be Wary of Your Warranty

Finding a warranty that offers complete protection is harder than most consumers realize, says Clay Smith, owner of Mid-GA Steel and Supply, headquartered in Grantville, Georgia. “There is no way to tell if two metals lying side by side have any difference in quality,” he said. “Unscrupulous manufacturers can make 25-year warranty claims for cheap metal that actually has just a five year life before fading.”

Because of this risk, it’s important to find a manufacturer that puts its steel vendors’ coil numbers on their warranties, which connects the buyer with the vendor and the exact metal purchased. “This will ensure that the warranty will be fully honored throughout its duration,” Smith said. “Without the coil number on your warranty, you have no protection, regardless of what your warranty might imply.”

A Long-Term Investment

Often one of the barriers to purchasing a metal roof is the cost, which is two to three times that of a shingle roof. However, buyers who realize a metal roof is a one-time investment versus an ongoing, life-long expense understand the considerable value it offers.

Asphalt roofs typically need to be replaced approximately every 15 years due to deterioration. Conversely, a metal roof is a permanent, extremely low-maintenance roof. “Although the up-front costs are considerably more than an asphalt roof, over the long term the durability of a metal roof makes it well worth it,” said Mr. Paulk.

The Final Solution

The rapid increase in the number of metal roofs nationwide will likely continue to intensify, as consumers better understand the durability and both the short and long-term savings metal roofs offer. Add to that the beauty of metal roofs seen in their own neighborhoods, and it’s easy to understand the surge in growth. The market is ripe; as baby boomers pay off their homes and settle into retirement, they are looking for a roof solution that lasts a lifetime. For more information about roofing in Oklahoma City, check out www.pizanoconstruction.com.

Home Improvements

Shower Heads – How To Pick The Shower Head That Is Right For You

Today, the bathroom is an integral part of everyone’s house or apartment. A relaxing shower or bath at the right moment can make the difference between a terrible and an amazing day. Considering this generally accepted fact it is only logical that money that is being invested in refurbishing your home is likely to be invested best in your bathroom. Small changes, such as changing your faucet, your shower doors or your shower head and hoses are cheap and can often be made without calling a plumber or any other tradesman. Where else in your home is it possible to increase you well-being that much with such little effort?

In this article I am going to explain to you how to pick the right shower head.

Price

Before you even start thinking about the shower head you are willing to buy, you should think about the price. It is just so easy to get sucked into buying one that is more than twice or three times as expensive as you initially planned on. Get an idea of the price you are willing to pay before you start shopping.

Water Consumption

Water consumption is a big issue when it comes to shower heads and there are multiple reasons for this. High water consumption will obviously drive up your water bill, but also your electricity bill, because electricity is generally used to heat the water. Depending on how often you shower, how you shower, which kind of head you use and the amount of persons in your household, you might be able to save more than $100 a month simply by using a more economical one – without losing any comfort!

Besides that, you should not forget the positive effects on the environment.

Design

Design is a very personal choice. There are all kinds of shapes and colors easily available in your local building supplies store. You should however keep in mind that shiny things are harder to clean and need to be cleaned more often. It is also important that its design fits into your bathroom. If it does not, it can ruin the whole atmosphere.

Practicality

Now it comes down to the shower head’s interior. Do you prefer to have a massage while having your shower, or do you prefer feeling like you are standing under a waterfall? Some people also favor simple ones without much flexibility, but with very economic water consumption. There are hardly any limits to this. Maybe you should do some research before you enter a store, because otherwise you might be overwhelmed by the variety.

Workmanship

The last but not least issue is workmanship. Once you have held a properly produced shower head in your hands you will realize what I am talking about. They are usually heavier and a lot more robust. Decent shower heads often also come with a longer and much more sturdy hose. The mechanism to adjust the water jet coming out of your shower head is also a lot more hard-wearing. Generally it is safe to say that quality pays for itself (cheap shower heads and hoses wear out really quickly), but if you’re on a budget or if your taste is short-lived, this is where you can save the most money.

Business, Company, Home Improvements

How Durable Are Laminate Cabinet Doors?

Even though laminate cabinet doors are almost the cheapest selection for your cupboards, they are far from being the lowest in quality. Where to buy Formica laminate sheets. When speaking from a standpoint of durability, I think high-pressure plastic laminate doors are the most durable of all.

Now I’ve been in the kitchen cabinet manufacturing business for many years and have owned several companies related to the industry. I’ve seen my share of old Formica cupboards that were in excellent shape. I have also seen some that were not in such good condition. Just like anything else, when something is maintained correctly, it’s possible “that” something will last a lifetime.

Laminate doors will last thirty to fifty years. The only thing that is required of the owners is to keep them wiped down regularly. Formica doors are easily cleaned with Windex, Formula 409 or just a damp cloth.

If you are considering having Formica in your kitchen or bathroom, may I suggest that you select white or off white for the color? Through the years these two colors have long withstood the ever-changing kitchen cupboard trends. Many different shades and patterns of laminate get discontinued every year, but white remains on the color chip chains of all the suppliers.

Now it is important that you DO NOT confuse Formica laminate doors with Thermofoil doors. Raised panel Thermofoil doors WILL NOT last as long as the hard-shell, high-pressure plastic laminate doors.

The two things that have a negative effect on Formica plastic laminate doors are how they are fabricated and cared for. If the manufacturer did not use enough glue on the doors, then you will experience problems. In my expert opinion, this only occurs once in ten thousand kitchens.

It’s important to understand the difference between a Melamine door and a plastic laminate door. Melamine is actually applied to the core board by the people who make the board. Formica laminate is applied by the people building your kitchen. Melamine is NOT as durable as laminate; it is thinner and not available in as many colors as Formica.

Here are a few cabinet door styles listed from cheapest to the most expensive:

Melanine
Plastic Laminate Doors
Thermofoil
Real Wood
Here’s a list of cupboard door styles from the lowest quality to the highest:

Thermofoil
Melamine
Real Wood
Formica
The way laminate doors are made is the sheet of plastic is purchased separately from the board. The board gets cut to the correct size for cabinet doors and then the plastic is cut a little oversize. The laminate edges of the door are glued on first. Next, the front and backsides of the doors are covered with Formica. Contact glue is used as the adhesive and routers are what the laminate is trimmed flush with the door’s edges. Cabinet makers use a file to smooth off the sharp edges. Any access contact adhesive is cleaned off with lacquer thinner.

Kitchen cabinet doors are laminated with “vertical” grade or VT plastic. This is the thinner of the two choices. Countertops are made out of the thicker plastic that is called “standard” thickness. VT is generally one thirty seconds of an inch thick and standard is one-sixteenth of an inch thick.

If you are considering getting Formica plastic laminate doors for your kitchen or bathroom, ask your cabinet maker if they can be three-quarters of an inch thick. Five-eighths thick laminate doors are durable and hold up well, but the thicker option will be more durable in the long run.